Recently at the building I work in we finished the walls in a gym that we have on site. This space is a standard steel building with 18 foot ceilings. The stud framing was basic, the same as standard interior wall framing only 18 foot tall. The question was how to secure the stud framing the steel structure.  A simple task for someone that dose this type of construction daily but if you’re like me and my team you may only tackle this type of project once or twice in your handyman career.  

The key to any project is knowing how to get started, I have found that the rest will fallow.  I began with good measurements and a rough sketch of the framing layout that I needed to achieve.  Because there is a level of structural sounds needed here I meet with a local commercial construction contractor that I have worked with on other projects and he guided through the lay out process and challenges I would encounter. I have found the quality contractors and suppliers are eager to assist with input and advice even when you’re not paying them, why, because they know you’re more likely to come to them when you need the big job done.

The first challenge was that none of the steel framing was in on plane with each other.  That is, one beam sat out two inches further than the below it or the gage of steel from one beam to another was different. All of this would in the end cause the wood framing to be out of plumb (not straight). 

The solution was simple, some small cut offs attached to the steel to move the wood framing out to a point that the studs could be plumbed and squared.

To attach the blocking and studs to the steel we used a 2 ¾ inch self taping screw. In this case it was a Teks brand but there are others like it. This screw is similar to a self taping sheet metal screw but has a lot more mussel to it. The key to its design is a pair of wings just above the drilling head. These wings bore out the wood stud to the correct diameter allowing you to drill directly through the stud without binding.  When the wings hit the steel behind the stud they break off allowing the screw to tap into the beam.  This made securing the stud framing quick and easy.  We did find that with the main beams which were ¼ thick steel I was easier to pre drill the beam using a template, the template ensured that the holes in the beam and the wood blocks would line up each time. 

When we first looked at this project I thought it was pushing the edge of my ability but with some basic research a little advice and some good old fashioned “Git R Done” I now have a new edge to push.  How about you is your preceded edge stopping you from something?  Push it further out then walk right up to it again.